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Thursday, January 21, 2016

Sally Part II, Long Sleeves for the Win

Sally for the WIN!!! 

I am so happy to be back with part II of the Sally Dress tour, and this time I am here to share with you an easy trick for a year-round dress. I am always in the market for new and easy beginner patterns-and, as we discussed in last week's post, Sally is just that! But how about Sally with sleeves? 


I adore the tank style, pull-over Sally dress! Here in the Windy City, we are still in LONG sleeves for a few more months. And a versatile pattern means 'A Win' for me-to sew year round. 


This week I let Hobbes play around with my beautiful Sis Boom fabric collection, and I was in heaven when she pulled out Caravelle Arcade's Jessica in Blue and Beauty Queen's Katie stripe in Pink. My head (and heart) went straight into Valentines mode, and we decided this will be her dress for our big Valentines fundraiser next month. 

You are going to love how easy it is to take Sally and change her up to meet the demand of the weather. To achieve this look, you will need the Gabriella Fae pattern for its bodice and sleeves. Also, if you are a sucker for lace like me, check out my November Blog here for adding these pretty darling details. 


Once you have both the Sally and Gabriella Fae bodice pieces cut out to size, go ahead and follow the steps here in order to change the arm cycle of Sally to adjust for the sleeves. 


Looking at the pictures above, from left to right. First, cut your pattern size in both dress bodice to size. Next, lay the Gabriella Fae front bodice on top of the Sally front bodice. Match the shoulders at the arm cycle edge. For this quick transformation, I am not changing anything else in the pattern--just the curve of the arm. As you can see, I shaded/colored in the difference in arm curve directly on the Sally for easy cutting. Once you have your markings on the front (repeat with the back bodice), go ahead and cut off the markings so your Sally can accept Gabriella Fae sleeves. 
***Please note that you can do this trick with most of your patterns. Always remember to change the arm-cycles and note the difference in the shoulder alignment. 

Next, sew your sleeves. You may choose to follow the Gabriella Fae directions to add your sleeves. Because I have experience sewing that pattern, I decided to change it up a bit and add a pleat at the top shoulder instead of a gathered puff. I'll be honest, it was an experiment, but I had nothing to lose--it's all in the pinning. 


It's so easy to add this small detail. First, fold your sleeve in half and stick a pin in the top middle. Then, starting from the edge, pin your sleeve to the bodice until you are at the halfway point/reached your shoulder seam on the bodice. Then move to the other side of the sleeve, starting from that end, pinning till you reach the middle of the bodice.

Looking at the pictures above, from left to right: grab your excess sleeve material in the center (bout 3-3,5 inches) and make sure that the sleeve is pinned perfectly up to the shoulder seams. Next, you will want to flatten the access sleeve and perfectly align it with the center seam on the shoulder. Pin in down and check it on both sides to make sure the pleat center is aligned with shoulder seam. Once you are happy, sew it up to the bodice. 

Once you have added on your sleeve, continue with the Sally directions. Just remember when you are sewing your front and back bodice closed, you are starting at the sleeves and sewing down.






And that's how I got Hobbes this new Sally. It's an easy beginner, pullover darling dress pattern.
Now show me how you transform your Sally dress. Get your copy of Sally and Gabriella Fae here 

Special thanks to my talented friend Julie over at the Little Sparrow Bows for her perfectly made to match hair halo. 

Like my backdrop? Temperatures have been in the teens here and I just didn't have the heart to ask Hobbes to pose outside. Loving my new Big Time Prints (formally Bubblegum Backdrops) for a quick and warm photo-shoot.

Till next time, happy sewing!
~Merav @ Baby Hobbes Design

Thursday, January 7, 2016

Make room for the SisBoom Sally...a beginner venture to creating a beautiful dress.

Make room for Sally! SHE is AMAZING! 



I must say that as much as I like challenging myself with new sewing complexity; I am always in the market for an easy beginner sewing pattern without buttons or zippers to whip up with a moment's notice. Like when Hobbes comes home from school and tells me "Mom, my friend Olivia asked for a My Little Pony dress, can that be her birthday present?...and the party is tomorrow!!!!" Or when I have a new sewing student who is eager to sew her first dress--but is uncomfortable with embellishments like buttons and zippers. The Sally is going to be my new go-to pattern; and I can't wait to introduce her to you!


The Sis Boom Sally sports a simple, yet modest tank bodice with two neck option that your child can pull on and off herself without any closures. The bodice is relaxed and the (optional) side sash and elastic sewn directly to the seams (no casing) can assist for a more fitted look. You can create two skirt looks. I chose to create the dress with a top skirt, but you can keep it simple and conserve fabric by sewing the bottom skirt only. 


In true Sis Boom style, you'll learn sewing techniques - Sis  Boom Sally focuses on bias tape placement for an unlined bodice (woohoo, less fabric) and you can get creative making your own bias to match. Store-bought bias is welcomed too--and you can place the bias flushed over the head and arm opening or use it to line the inside edges only. 


Take a look at some of the different Sally's made during testing. It's a such a great layering dress too!



The best part of the soon-to-be-released Sally is that you are getting ONE wonderfully written (congrats Jeanine Thomlinson for her first pattern with the Sis Boom and Sciencetific Seamstress team) Beginner pattern sized from 3-Months to 14 years. That's babies, kids and tweens all in ONE loaded  pattern. The actual pattern pieces can be printed in your child size-so for Hobbes dress, I printed 2 pages only for a size 3T high neck-bodice. The skirt measurements are found on page 6-and you can adjust the length based on the child height-in my case, a 4T.


Oh, and did you catch how I like to conserve fabric? My beautiful Jennifer Paganelli fabrics, in Good Company Jessie in garnet and Nostalgia Tilly in gold are too dear to me to just stay hidden under my top skirt. What do you think of this little trick?



It's so simple to do this to your bottom skirt, let's call it underskirt and conserve your designer fabrics. First, I added an extra 0.5 to the bottom skirt length to account for the seam allowance when sewing the two fabrics together. Next, for the fabric (yellow) portion, I looked at the difference between the top and bottom layer-I call it the "seen underskirt" and added 2 inches plus a 0.5 inch for the hem. Total all that and that's the measurement for the yellow bottom portion of my bottom skirt. To get the top portion of my (white) underskirt, just subtract the previous total from your original underskirt measurement + 0.5 we originally added to the skirt length to account for seam allowance. Easy right?


I am loving the simplicity of the SisBoom Sally and I can't wait to make many more Sally's for Hobbes to wear year-round. Join me next week for a modified look at the Sally-because you know how I like to stretch my pattern bucks!

Till then, happy sewing!
~Merav @ Baby Hobbes Design

Stop by my Facebook page Baby Hobbes Design and say Hi; or drop me a line @babyhobbesdesign on Instagram. 

Shout out to the wonderful Jeanine Thoslinson and all the wonderful Sally testers; it was a pleasure testing with you.