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Saturday, June 29, 2013

Come Sew With Me. BHD Paper Bag Tutorial and Pattern.

So as promised, here is Baby Hobbes Design tutorial for a size 2/3 Paper Bag Skirt, part of the Come Sew With Me project

Copyright@2013 by Merav Ruthman/Baby Hobbes Design. All rights reserved. No part of this ebook/pattern tutorial can be reproduced in any other form or by any electronic or mechanical means without permission from the author. This pattern may be used by to produce items for resale provided credit in the description is given to Baby Hobbes Design.

Let's sew together

So, here is what you need to SEW A PAPER BAG SKIRT:
  • IRON
Unless otherwise noted, seam allowance is 5/8 of an inch

Not hard, right? Oh, and your sewing machine.

Ok, so let's begin.

Step 1: Load up your machine
First, pick your fabrics. I chose to make a festive skirt for Chicago Pride Weekend coming up. Don't forget to choose coordinating threads.
Next, use your bobbin winder, and attach bobbin when complete.  Thread your needle and head over to your fabrics.

Step 2: Prepare Fabrics
I made a skirt for Hobbes who is in between a size 2/3 on the bottom. 

If you are going to follow along with a size 2/3 skirt, cut:
Cut 1 SW (Salvage Width) by 16 inches Length
***SW, from edge to edge of the fabric, usually marked by manufacture and name of pattern.44-46 inches across
Fold  in half with right side of fabric folded in. Cut in half so that you are left with two rectangles of 22 (or 23) inches wide x 16 inches long

If you are making a smaller or larger size, decide how long you want the complete FINISHED skirt to be from Belly Bottom to above knee. 
Take that number and add 4 inches. 

Here is how I found my measurements for a size 2/3 skirt:
I knew I wanted 12 inches from Belly Button to above knee. 
I added 3 inches for the paper bag waist, 1 inch hem.
That's a total of 16 inches.

I cut 16" inches of fabric in the length by the entire width from Salvage to Salvage (The Salvage is where you find all the info about the fabric-usually runs 44 inches across. I don't need so much fullness as she is a size 2/3, but if you are making a larger size, consider adding 3-4 inches extra per size. 
A size 5 skirt width would be 12 inch more than Hobbes skirt. So it would be 56 inches wide. Since most apparel fabrics SW runs no more than 44-46, you'll just need a bigger piece of fabric so you can cut two panels of width of 28 inches long. So find your skirt length size x 28 inches wide CUT TWO TIMES for size 5.

Makes sense?

So now you should have two rectangles. Make sure they are facing each other, with the right sides of the fabric together and iron:

Pin together and you are ready to sew.

Step 3: Assemble and pin the fabric together.
With your right sides together, pin along both of the length side of the skirt. Pin leaving 3/4 of an inch space between tip of pin and edge of fabric.

with the fabric aligned at 5/8 seam allowance (Space between machine needle and edge of fabric) sew/seam a straight line starting at the top all the way to the bottom. DON'T forget to back stitch the beginning and ends of the seam so your stitches don't come apart.

Step 6: Finish your edges.
If you like to have a more professional look, you may move over to our overlock machine and serge your edges. Otherwise, skip step 6 and just cut off the extra seam allowance from your fabric edge using fray scissors or pinky sheers.

Step 7: hemming the bottom of your skirt
With the skirt inside out, and using a ruler, measure 1/2 inch from bottom of skirt. Fold 1/2 inch and iron. repeat again by measuring 1/2 inch from the folded bottom and folding/ironing. This is give you a once inch folded hem.
* If you serged your hem, you may only need to fold once for a larger 1 inch hem.

Step 8: pinning your hem
Using fabric pins, pin your hem to stay in place after ironing it in place. I chose to place the pins in this direction for easier removal upon sewing.
****Remove pin prior to stitch.

Step 9: Measuring the top Hem
As you did in step 7, fold top hem 3 inches (using a ruler) and iron to stay in place.

Step 10: Mark your stitch

using your pins, mark the two stitch lines. These stitched lines will create a case for your elastic. I chose a 1/2 an inch elastic band, 18 inches long for the waist.

The first pin closes to the raw edge should be place no more than 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the raw edge. If you are using 1/2 inch elastic, the next row of stitches should be placed no less than  5/8- 3/4 of an inch from 1st stitch line. Mark with Pins line so:

Step 11: Sewing top hem
VERY IMPORTANT that you leave a 1 inch space (UNSTITCHED) on the 1st line of stitches so you can feed elastic through. After elastic is pulled through, you will stitch it closed. Also, when making cloths for Hobbes I keep this 1 inch unstitched so I can have easy access to changing the elastic size. In this skirt, however, you will be cutting the elastic to 18 inch and using all of it without remnants.

Stitch the 1st line like so:

Leave 1 inch unstitched.
Sew the second the second line:
See above picture, space created for elastic between the two parallel rows of stitches.

Step 12:
Iron Skirt

Step 13: Elastic.
Find the space left without a seam.

Using a safety pin, feed elastic through casting. Remember to hand on the other edge of the elastic - so you don't accidentally feed it through and have to start again.

Step 14: Sew elastic at edge
With the two sides facing each other, sew the edges of the elastic 1/2 of an inch for the edge.

Step 15: Sew the 1 inch opening

Step 16: ALL DONE!!! Congrats, you now made your first skirt.

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